Railcar Fine Goods —Review — 9oz unsanforized American — Journeyman fit — Denim for summer

The temperature in Australia is rising as we are walking into summer. So, I need a pair of denim which has lightweight fabric and loose fit to get through it. May I introduce you Railcar Fine Goods (RCFG) “Unsanforized 9oz American” in this writing. Let’s dive into it.

Fabric

According to RCFG website, the fabric is rare 9oz American Cone Mills unsanforized (shrink to fit). It has a good handfeel. Smooth yet still has some noticeable vertical streaks running through the jeans. The weave is loose and the hue is bright blue. The photos would be able to describe the fabric better than words here.

9oz right hand twill with bright blue hue. Vertical streaks are subtle but still noticeable.

Weft side with texture exposed more clearly. White selvedge line.

I put the pairs side by side for comparison. Left is the 9oz unsanforized America (Cone denim). Right is RHT 14oz sanforized (White Oak Cone denim). Both of the pairs are from RCFG. A bright blue hue compared to a blue-steel hue.

The sun light comes through the fabric easily. Loose weave and very breathable fabric.

And this fabric becomes even more interesting when it touches the water. I did one hot soak at 40'C as an attempt to take out all the shrinkage. Although I have read about this fabric in RCFG website, I was surprised by how the hue change after the soak. It became darker, more “indigo” and the texture is more recognisable.

The fabric became more hairy and neppy. Vertical indigo streaks are more noticeable. In short, the fabric became more textured. And it indeed feels more rigid, as advised on RCFG website.

A simple comparison is done here. Two pieces in the center are the same piece of 14oz sanforized White Oak Cone denim. The very left is the 9oz itself before soak. The very right is 9oz after soak. We can tell the difference.

If there should be another way to describe the change in hue, I would say before soak, the hue is similar to Pure Blue Japan “Blue Gray”. After soak, it is more similar to Pure Blue Japan “Bright Blue”. Of course, the hue and colour here on RCFG 9oz fabric is not as deep as the one on PBJ.

The soak did change the hue and reveal more texture of the fabric but it did not affect the weave and breathability much. I tried to put the fabric under the sun and it is pretty much similar to what we had before soak.

With the weight of 9oz before soak, this fabric is quite interesting with good amount of texture, loose weave and breathability to provide comfort and the indigo hue transformation was just beautiful.

Fit

This fabric is available in both of RCFG fits “Spikes Slim Taper” and “Journeyman Relaxed Taper”. I picked “Journeyman” fit for this pair. I found it is close to a regular straight fit with square top block, and gentle taper from knee to hem. And it is exactly what I like for a loose fit.

After the hot soak, the measurements changed dramatically. Below is my record for size 38 (in inches).

Measurements — Waist — Front rise — Back rise — Thigh — Hem — Inseam

Before soak — — — 39– — — 13.48– — — 15.60– — 13.50– — -9.00– — 38

After soak — — — 35.5– — — 11– — — — 15– — — 13.5– — — 8.5– — — 33.5

Despite being informed about the significant shrinkage, I’m still impressed by this huge degree, particularly the waist measurement. If you are about to pick this fabric, please keep this factor in mind. Below photos will give us a better idea of how the pair would look after soak.

Front

Side

Back. And yes, the leather patch did change after soak.

After the soak, while this Journeyman fit is roomy, providing a lot of comfort and mobility but it does not look baggy at all. Back yoke is pretty flat so the top block is square. We have some tapering from the knee down to the hem. This gives the pair a relatively modern look, with the calves part not being too straight nor too slim. I really like it.

Construction & Details

This part is where RCFG really puts their name on the products. Everything from cutting to sewing is done in-house to ensure RCFG offer the best products they can make. RCFG team uses vintage machines with some modification so the needlework is performed at it’s best.

Generally, the sewing is pretty neat. There are quite a few different colours and stitches applied to the jeans. I found no major flaws. Let’s have a closer look with below photos to have a better idea of both the construction and details.

An overall view of the top block. Five buttons fly. Chain stitches run through. “Shell-edge” stitches at the fly. Riveted front pockets.

Construction with chainstitches. Bar-tacked back pockets. Sewing is clean.

Reinforced stitches at the fly and crotch areas. The inseams have 2 stitches, off-white and dark-blue. The off-white stitches will make a distinct appearance whereas the dark-blue stitches blends in with the indigo of the fabric very well.

A closer look at the crotch area from the inside.

“Shell-edge” stitches at the fly-piece to get a clean look. Branded fly buttons.

Branded fly buttons. If you look it from the top down, we see a “R” here. Pretty interesting.

Front pocket with printed brand artwork and wash instruction. The fabric of this pocket feels thin. Provide enough room for my smartphone and wallet.

Aged leather patch of my Railcar X052 compared with the new leather patch of the 9oz.

Belt loops are tucked into waistband and raised. Top and bottom stitches are dark-blue, so it blends in with the colour of the jeans.

Very clean inseam locking. I love this. And well-executed chainstitch at the hem.

In short, I’m pleased with the sewing RCFG has performed. I think every single stitch here is done with purpose. It creates an overall clean appearance of the jeans.

Thoughts

While there are many offers of lightweight denims out there (Oni Kiraku, Tanuki Ten, Okayama Denim x Japan Blue Dog Days Futago, etc), I’m very happy with my RCFG 9oz STF. Except ODJB Dog Days Futago (10oz sanforized), no others have come close to this fabric weight. And it has the right amount of texture which I like whereas in other cases, the texture is pretty much exaggerated in my opinion. I bought this pair for summer use. I have started wearing it from the first day of summer and until now, it’s served the purpose very well. I got through 2 days at 40'C in this pair and no problems so far. The fabric is feather-light and super breathable.

My summer outfit

And the loose fit really plays an important role in providing comfort and mobility, especially with a hem at 8.5 inches after soak. However, loose fit does not mean baggy or big in this case. RCFG’s Journeyman fit looks pretty nice with gentle tapering from the knee down.

In regards to construction and details, all I want in a pair of jeans is well put together here. Clean sewing, solid construction and minimalism design. The new “shell-edge” stitches really separate RCFG from many other brands out there. The hardware is well-made and sturdy. Nothing lousy, everything is done with purposes. I really get the American vibe when wearing this pair.

The only thing that stays a secret until now is the fading potential of the fabric. If I have some photos of the fading progress, I will update.

Beautiful fabric under the sun light and well-executed needlework. What else can I ask?

At the moment of writing this review, the price of this pair is USD$220. I paid another USD$30 for shipping, then the final price is around AUD$330, similar price to a pair of Japanese raw selvedge denim. I have not been able to test the durability of the fabric and the stitching yet. But if we take into account the rarity of the fabric, in-house production and quality management, and a 100% American made (fabric from Cone mills, production in Monrovia), this price is relatively reasonable. And in RCFG’s denim collection, you can fine some other rare denims such as 13.5 oz White Oak Cone Mills denim (X001) or 12.5oz American gold-line neppy denim.

RCFG jeans is just like their “Made in USA” origin statement, straightforward and no frills. I think this 9oz is going to be a reliable summer companion. Thank you Steven Dang, for bringing such a rare and interesting product to the market!